Monday, January 30, 2017

First week in Italy

Bongiorno!

Well, one lifetime dream is coming true - I am living (albeit temporarily) and studying in the heart of beautiful Tuscany in a little walled town called Siena, where there bares an inscription on the exterior arch: "Cor magis tibi Sena pandit" ("Siena shows a heart that is bigger than this gate.")

I have felt it.

I felt it when I first got off the bus and was greeted by my professor, Jane Rago, who also shares family ancestry in Italy and longs to connect with the country of origin of her grandparents. (Hers are from Naples and mine are from the same region of Campania, province of Naples, from two small neighboring towns called Boscoreale ("royal forest") and Boscotrecase ("three houses in a forest.")

Stepping back a day or two, I guess you could say my first introduction to Italy was actually when I landed in Rome and got to exchange some Italian phrases, have a cup of cappuccino (Italian style!) and briefly experienced the city that was once the center of the most powerful empire on earth and may well have been the most powerful one of all time. (Certainly the longest lasting.) I had a relatively comfortable, though exhausting, flight from Savannah, Georgia, to JFK, New York, to Lisbon, Portugal, and finally to Rome. It caused me to reflect: What is a "world traveler?" Is it someone who collects stamps on a passport or collects digital stamps by capturing the geo-location with GPS so they can have it proven they "were there" on their Instagram? Is it to be able to say "Je voudrais un café" in France or "Vorrei un caffe" in Italy with a certain amount of savoir faire and confidence? Can you pass for a sophisticated European traveler and not just another American tourist if you are at least wearing a sexy stylish trench coat with a nifty scarf?

As far as dining goes, hopefully you can get by ok without having traditional bacon and eggs for breakfast, because that is something you just won't see often in Italy, with the exception of the touristy areas. Most local Italians forego having breakfast and usually start their day with an espresso and a cigarette, but a simple carb like a cornetto (Italian type of croissant) or other pastry to go with your cappuccino is totally acceptable. The balance to having pastries every morning is that you will be walking everywhere around the city, up and down hills and stairs, so bring on the panforte! (Siena's signature spice cake!)


" in Italy or "Je voudrais un café" cappuccino in France with a certain amount of confidence and savoir-faire? (Even if the locals can spot you as an American a half-mile away no matter how smart you look in your trenchcoat.) I Feel That These easy assimilations would do well enough if one only has a few days (as a "tourist" ) but in order to really absorb cultures ... the rhythm of a city or even a country ... it would a disservice to oneself not to stay as long as they can, if they have the opportunityI have just completed the first of twelve weeks That I will be a temporary citizen (not traveler, not tourist, but CITIZEN) of Siena. I have had many micro-impressions, and I am Already kicking myself for not keeping up with my daily journal (Which I will catch up with later) to capture These various interactions. For now, let me say That as inscribed by the greeting on the entry archway, Siena does indeed reflect a heart. Not just in spirit but quite figuratively as well with the Piazza del Campo being the beating pulse exit ramps from Which the edges of the Field like atriums leading to wide thoroughfare streets like arteries, Which leads to narrower streets and corridors That are like capillaries - all avenues to deliver people to sustain the city - feeding it with cultures exchange of ideas, promoting the local II
I already feel like 12 weeks are going to go by too fast. It has been occurring to me this week that several months is the bare minimum one needs to really delve into the local language, the rhythm, the nuances, the personality, the spirit, and the customs of a foreign city. Even if it is just to figure out why local baristas might give you a funny look if you order a cappuccino or large caffe latte (not plain "latte" or you'll just get a glass of hot milk) at noon! If you would rather not scare the local Italians, just trust me...don't do it. Your sexy trench coat will not save you. You'll still look totally American. If you must have a coffee with milk and simply can not get up before 10 a.m., then order a caffe macchiato...basically an espresso with a spotted bits of foamed milk which is very little like the kind you get in America. (None of that viscous caramel syrup you've gotten used to, if you please...darn you, Starbucks!!)